Musée Gustave Moreau, Paris

The house and studio of the Symbolist painter Gustave Moreau, which he designed as his own museum before he died in 1898. The first floor is his small, cluttered apartment, full of family furniture and keepsakes. Above, two huge studios connected by a spectacular spiral staircase are hung floor to ceiling with his jewel-like paintings, and cabinets hold thousands of drawings and sketches.

It feels like stepping into a 19th-century artist's home, and it's rarely crowded. It's at the foot of the slope up to Montmartre. It's closed on Tuesdays.