Place du Tertre and Montmartre village

The little square at the top of Montmartre where artists set up their easels and sketch portraits, as they have since Picasso and Renoir's day. The cobbled lanes around it keep the feel of the village Montmartre was in the 19th century: the last vineyard in Paris (with a harvest festival in October), the windmills of the Moulin de la Galette, the Bateau-Lavoir where Picasso painted, and the pink Maison Rose café.

The Musée de Montmartre, in the house where Renoir had his studio, tells the area's story. At the bottom of the hill, on Boulevard de Clichy, is the Moulin Rouge, home of the cancan since 1889, with shows nightly. The Place du Tertre is very touristy in the middle of the day; explore the quieter back streets.