Alfama and Tram 28, Lisbon

Lisbon's oldest district, a maze of steep, winding streets and stairways below the São Jorge Castle, which survived the great earthquake of 1755. Look out from the Miradouro de Santa Luzia and the Portas do Sol viewpoints over the red roofs to the river. In the evening, hear fado, Portugal's soulful music, in a small tavern.

The yellow Tram 28 rattles through Alfama, Graça and Baixa. It's very crowded with tourists; board at the end of the line at Martim Moniz, early in the morning, and watch for pickpockets.