Tsuglagkhang Complex, McLeod Ganj

The main temple of the Tibetan community in exile, next to the residence of the Dalai Lama, in McLeod Ganj above Dharamsala. Monks debate in the courtyard in the afternoons, clapping to make their points, and pilgrims walk the kora (circuit) around the complex, spinning prayer wheels. The Tibet Museum, in the complex, tells the story of the Chinese occupation and the exile.

McLeod Ganj is a cool hill-station retreat from the heat of Delhi, home to Tibetan refugees, Kashmiris, Indians and many Western visitors. Learn about Tibet by talking with locals, joining a meditation course or volunteering to teach English, and eat momos and thukpa in the Tibetan cafés. When the Dalai Lama is in residence, his public teachings are free; register at the security office.

It's about 12 hours by overnight bus from Delhi, or fly to Gaggal (Kangra) airport.