Ntchisi Forest Lodge

A small, owner-run eco-lodge in the Ntchisi Forest Reserve, high on the escarpment of the Rift Valley about two hours north of Lilongwe. The colonial-era house sits in one of Malawi's last patches of indigenous rainforest, with views over the hills towards Lake Malawi.

There are a handful of en-suite rooms, a forest cabin and tents, all run on solar power. Meals are home cooked, and the air is cool compared with the lowlands. Guided walks through the forest look for samango monkeys, baboons and many birds, and the lodge can arrange village visits and tours of its community projects.

The road is unsealed towards the end: a 4x4 or a lodge transfer is best in the rainy season.